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Why Did Roosevelt Choose the Badlands of
Dakota Territory and Not Somewhere Else?
Three reasons. First, he had made the acquaintance
in New York of a man named Commodore
Henry Gorringe, a retired naval officer. Gorringe
was the man who brought Cleopatra’s Needle
(the 71-foot, 200 ton ancient Egyptian obelisk) to
New York City in 1880.
In 1883, Gorringe had purchased the abandoned
Cantonment on the western edge of the
village of Little Missouri with the idea of making
it a hunting lodge. Roosevelt met Gorringe in
May, 1883, at the Free Trade Club in New York.
Gorringe invited Roosevelt to join him in a trip to
the Dakota badlands in the late summer of 1883.
Roosevelt accepted the invitation. But for
unknown reasons Gorringe backed out of the
trip at the last minute. Roosevelt decided to
go anyway.
Second, the Little Missouri River Valley was
comparatively easy to get to. All Roosevelt had to
do was take the train from New York to Chicago,
switch to the Northern Pacific to St. Paul,
Bismarck, and eventually the village of Little
Missouri. It was, by Nineteenth Century standards,
an easy five-day railroad journey. Roosevelt
could get right to the place he wanted to go by
rail, without any need to make connections with a
stage line, or hire someone to guide him to a place
remote from the transportation infrastructure.
Had he wanted to hunt in the Black Hills, for
example, he would have had to endure a long
stagecoach ride from Bismarck or Cheyenne. The
hunting grounds of Dakota Territory were right
outside the Northern Pacific depot, such as it was.
Third, there was a Dakota badlands boom
in 1883.
In 1871, Hiram Latham had published Trans-Missouri Stock Raising; the Pasture Lands of North
America; Winter Grazing. James S. Brisbin’s The
Beef Bonanza; or How to Get Rich on the Plains was
published in 1881. New York, Paris, and London
newspapers had been reporting a buzz of activity
on the northern plains. Suddenly it was fashionable
for aristocrats on both sides of the Atlantic to
have a cattle ranch somewhere in those parts of
the American West recently wrested from
American Indians. In 1883, the first great rush
of Texas longhorns reached northern Dakota
Territory.
Roosevelt himself had chosen to hunt in
Dakota Territory after conversations with Howard
Eaton of Pittsburgh, and Gorringe of New York.
Roosevelt ventured to one of America’s last frontiers
in 1883, but it was far from obscure in the
elite social circles in which Roosevelt traveled.
Where Did Roosevelt Stay When He First
Arrived in the Badlands?
Roosevelt arrived on the train about 3 a.m. on the
night of September 7-8, 1883. The train stopped
in the village of Little Missouri, sometimes called
Comba, on the west bank of the Little Missouri
River. Roosevelt spent the rest of that first night
at the Pyramid Park Hotel.
The next day he managed to hire the reluctant
Joe Ferris to serve as his hunting guide, borrowed
from the formidable and shifty-eyed E.G.
Paddock a rifle strong enough to kill a buffalo, and
traveled seven miles south of Little Missouri in a
buck wagon to the Maltese Cross Ranch, also
known as the Chimney Butte Ranch, occupied by
William Merrifield and Ferris’ brother Sylvane.
There he spent his second night in the badlands
(September 8). Although Merrifield and Sylvane
Ferris were not at first impressed by the New York
dude, they gained some appreciation when he
insisted on sleeping on the floor rather than displace
them from their beds.
For the rest of his buffalo hunt, Roosevelt headquartered
at the cabin of Gregor and Lincoln
Lang, recent Scottish immigrants who were managing
the investment of an English capitalist
named Sir John Pender. Lang’s cabin (the first of
three the Langs occupied in the badlands) was
located at the mouth of Little Cannonball Creek,
just north of Pretty Butte, near today’s Marmarth,
North Dakota.
After a ten-day hunt, Roosevelt returned to the
Pyramid Park Hotel on the nights of September
22-23, 1883, before embarking for St. Paul and
then New York City.
Roosevelt did not actually take possession
of the Chimney Butte Ranch headquarters until
his return to the Little Missouri River Valley in
June 1884.
How Did People in Dakota React to Roosevelt?
At first, of course, they were amused, skeptical,
and sometimes derisive. Roosevelt cut a somewhat
ridiculous figure with his designer buckskins
and his Tiffany’s knife, his falsetto voice
and Harvard accent. He sensed this himself.
In his Autobiography, he wrote, “When I went
among strangers I always had to spend twentyfour
hours in living down the fact that I wore
spectacles, remaining as long as I could judiciously
deaf to any side remarks about ‘four eyes’
unless it became evident that my being quiet was
misconstrued and that it was better to bring matters
to a head at once.”
To Henry Cabot Lodge, he provided a somewhat
comic picture of himself, on August 12, 1884.
“You would be amused to see me, in my broad
sombrero hat, fringed and beaded buckskin shirt,
horse hide chaparajos or riding trousers, and
cowhide boots, with braided bridle and silver
spurs.”
In the course of their ten-day buffalo hunt in
1883, Joe Ferris realized that there was something
indefatigable in Roosevelt’s character.
Ferris said, “I liked him from the start. He struck
me as a quiet sort of man, easy to get along with.”
Scotsman Gregor Lang realized Roosevelt’s
greatness in the week of late evening conversations
he had with TR about ranching, the West,
and American politics. When Roosevelt and
Joe Ferris finally drove north towards the village
of Little Missouri, carrying the head of
Roosevelt’s buffalo in Ferris’s buckboard, on
September 22, 1883, Gregor Lang turned to his
son and said, “There goes the most remarkable
man I ever met.”
The Roosevelt who arrived in the badlands in
September 1883 was a very different man from
the one who returned to civilization in 1887.
Little Missouri rancher Frank Roberts said,
“He was rather a slim-lookin’ fellow when he
came out here, but after he lived out here... his
build got wider and heavier... he got to be lookin’
more like a rugged man.”
Upon Roosevelt’s return to life in the East, one
of his Harvard classmates wrote, “I recall my
astonishment the first time I saw him, after the
lapse of several years, to find him with the neck
of a Titan and with broad shoulders and stalwart
chest, instead of the city-bred, slight young
friend I had known earlier.”
But the greatest praise Roosevelt received from
a resident of the Little Missouri River Valley
came from Lincoln Lang.
It was like a scene out of a Laura Ingalls Wilder
novel. From his bed in the cabin, young Lincoln
listened to his father and Roosevelt talk deep
into the night. Undoubtedly he drifted off before the conversations were finished, but he heard
enough to form a lifelong judgment of Roosevelt.
In Ranching with Roosevelt, he wrote, “It was listening
to those talks after supper in the old shack
on the Cannonball, that I first came to understand
that the Lord made the earth for all of us,
and not for a chosen few.”
How Much Land Did Roosevelt Actually Own
in the Little Missouri River Valley?
None. He squatted on many thousands of acres,
some surrounding the Maltese and some surrounding the Elkhorn ranch headquarters.
Roosevelt paid taxes on his capital investment in
the cattle industry, but he never owned an acre of
Dakota property.
Most of the inhabitants of the badlands during
this period actually owned no land. It was open
range, recently taken from its Indian claimants,
not yet deeded out under the Homestead Act
(1862), the Timber Culture Act (1873) or the
Desert Lands Act (1877). Most of it was owned by
the government of the United States. Some
of it comprised the gigantic swath of land
(40,000,000 acres) granted to the Northern Pacific
Railroad as incentive to build the transcontinental
rail line, not yet disposed of by the NP. When the
Marquis de Mores began to obtain actual title to
acreage in the badlands, he was regarded as a nuisance
who was violating the unwritten code of
informal land tenancy.
In 1884, Roosevelt paid someone, perhaps a
hunter, perhaps an existing rancher, $400 to
extinguish a rival claim on the Elkhorn site. This
was not a means of actually buying land, but
rather of pre-empting an existing squatter.
In the book he wrote about his ranch experiences,
Hunting Trips of a Ranchman, 1885,
Roosevelt acknowledged that squatter cattlemen
did not hold legal claims to the lands on which
they grazed their herds.
“The cattle-men... keep herds and build houses
on the land; yet I would not for a moment
debar settlers from the right of entry to the cattle
country, though their coming in means in the end
the destruction of us and our industry. For we
ourselves, and the life that we lead, will shortly
pass away from the plains as completely as the
red and white hunters who have vanished from
before our herds.”
In other words, Roosevelt acknowledged that
when farmers with valid land deeds entered the
western reaches of Dakota Territory, squatter
ranchers would have no choice but to acknowledge
the newcomers’ superior claims and withdraw
from the land.
In the meantime, as Roosevelt wrote in Hunting
Trips of a Ranchman, a rancher was by custom
entitled to a swath of land four miles upriver and
four miles downriver from his headquarters and
indefinitely in a perpendicular direction.
How Much Time Did Roosevelt Actually Spend
in North Dakota?
A little over a year total. His significant residencies
were spread over a four-year period between
September 7, 1883, and December 5, 1887.
In 1883, he spent approximately 21 days in the
badlands. In 1884, he made four trips to Dakota
(and the Big Horn Mountains) for a total of
approximately 73 days. In 1885 he made two sustained
trips to his Dakota ranches. The total
appears to have been 87 days that year.
In 1886, he made one long and a number of
shorter visits, totaling approximately 133 days.
The period between March 19 and July 8 was his
longest sustained visit to the Little Missouri
River Valley.
In 1887, after the disastrous winter, Roosevelt
made two visits to his western ranches. The first,
April 9-20, reminded him of just how much he
and every other rancher had lost. The second,
between November 1 and December 5, 1887,
was a hunting trip. The total for 1887 is approximately
45 days.
The total for all of these visits, between 1883
and 1887, comes to something like 359 days.
Roosevelt continued to visit the Dakota badlands
to hunt almost every year until 1896. Thereafter,
he visited North Dakota six more times, always to
advance his political agenda, and never for more
than a couple of days. He last visited the badlands
on October 6, 1918, just a few months
before his death.
For some reason, Roosevelt was sensitive about
the amount of time he spent in Dakota Territory.
Although he was incapable of lying outright, he
frequently exaggerated when describing his
exploits, and for some reason he led the world to
believe that he had spent more time in Dakota
than he actually did. In Fargo in 1910, Roosevelt
said, “It is twenty-seven years since I first
punched cattle on the Little Missouri, where I
lived for the major part of seven years, and off and
on for nearly fifteen years.”
How Much Actual Work Did Roosevelt Do
Among Cattle?
More than you might think. He wanted desperately
to be accepted by the ranchers and cowboys
of the American West, so he threw himself
unhesitatingly into the life of the range. He
refused to consider any labor beneath his dignity,
however dirty, dangerous, or unpleasant it was.
He never complained, never willingly called
attention to himself, never was first in the grub
line or last up in the morning.
Because his eyesight was so poor, Roosevelt
never became adept with the lasso. His horsemanship
was more dogged than graceful. He
tended therefore to do the most basic work of the
roundup, riding the perimeter of the herds, often
doing both day and night shifts, and wrestling
calves to the ground for branding.
On one occasion he was in the saddle for forty
hours straight, on five different horses. Before that
marathon work stint was over, Roosevelt helped
stop a stampede.
He participated in the first-ever general
roundup in the Little Missouri River Valley in
June 1884. In 1885 he participated in the spring
roundup for 32 straight days, along with 60 other
men, more than 300 horses, and thousands of cattle.
In five weeks he rode more than a thousand
miles up and down the Little Missouri River.
Roosevelt rode whatever horse was put in front
of him. He was frequently thrown by the wild
ones. He broke ribs and the point of his shoulder
in the course of his roundup adventures, but he
forced himself never to miss a work call. Lincoln
Lang recalled that Roosevelt once drew a mean
bucking horse. He “gave us all an exhibition of
the stuff he was made of.... He had his grip and
like grim death he hung on... hat, glasses, sixshooter,
everything unanchored about him took
the count. But there was no breaking his grip....
he stuck.” Roosevelt’s account was more comical.
“I rode him all the way from the tip of his ear to
the end of his tail.”
One long-time cowboy concluded, “That four-eyed
maverick has sand in his craw a-plenty.”
To his closest friend Henry Cabot Lodge, he
wrote, “I have been three weeks on the roundup
and have worked as hard as any of the cowboys...
Yesterday I was eighteen hours in the saddle—
from 4 a.m. to 10 p.m.—having half an hour each
for dinner and tea. I can now do cowboy work
pretty well.”
In 1886 Roosevelt wrote, “We breakfast at
three every morning, and work from sixteen to
eighteen hours a day, counting night guard; so I
get pretty sleepy; but I feel strong as a bear.”
Roosevelt did all this hard and dangerous work
without complaining, but he also read a good deal
during leisure moments, and he listened carefully
to the stories, the poetry, and the songs of the
cowboys who rode night guard. Later in his life,
he encouraged the folklorist John Lomax to
record as much cowboy culture as possible. In
fact, Roosevelt wrote the introduction to Lomax’
1910 book Cowboy Songs and Other Frontier
Ballads.
Is it True that Roosevelt Commissioned
a Badlands Seamstress to Make Him
a Buckskin Shirt?
Yes. Roosevelt met Gregor Lang and his son
Lincoln in September 1883 at the mouth of Little
Cannonball Creek, north of today’s Marmarth,
North Dakota. Nine months later, in June 1884,
Roosevelt returned to the Lang’s ranch to ask
Lang senior to help draw up a contract increasing
his investment in the badlands cattle industry.
On this second visit, Roosevelt asked Lincoln
Lang, now 17 years old, to help him accomplish
two goals. He wanted to kill an antelope and he
wanted to obtain a genuine frontier buckskin
shirt. Young Lang suggested that they ride east 25
miles to a ranch occupied by “Old Mrs. Maddox,”
a woman who might make Roosevelt the shirt he
wanted, and meanwhile keep their eyes open for
a pronghorn antelope on the rolling plains east of
the badlands. Lang rightly understood that antelope
prefer open country to the badlands.
Mrs. Maddox lived in the shadow of Black
Butte on Sand Creek near today’s Amidon, North
Dakota. She was a colorful character, and
Roosevelt clearly found much to appreciate in
her besides her skill as a seamstress. In his
Autobiography, he described her as “a very capable
and very forceful woman, with sound ideas of justice
and abundantly well able to hold her own.”
This was something of an understatement. Her
husband got drunk and tried to beat her, but, as
Roosevelt told the story, “She knocked him down
with a stove-lid lifter, and the admiring bull
whackers bore him off, leaving the lady in full
possession of the ranch.”
Given Mrs. Maddox’s temper, one hopes Lang
persuaded Roosevelt not to explain to her his
theory of the buckskin shirt. “The fringed tunic
or hunting shirt, made of buckskin,” Roosevelt
asserted, represented “the most picturesque and
distinctly national dress ever worn in America. It
was the dress in which Daniel Boone was clad
when he first passed through the trackless forests
of the Alleghenies... it was the dress worn by grim
old Davy Crockett when he fell at the Alamo.”
They arrived at the Maddox ranch just in time
for dinner. According to Lang, Roosevelt and
Mrs. Maddox hit it off. “Almost at once, she
seemed to take a liking to Roosevelt, becoming
quite chatty, which was unusual for her with
strangers.” “After dinner she measured him for
his suit, promising it in a couple of weeks.”
Roosevelt commissioned his Davy Crockett
shirt and Mrs. Maddox got it to him on schedule,
sometime later in 1884. In his Autobiography he
explained that he used the shirt “for years, [and
it] was used by one of my sons in Arizona a couple
of winters ago” (almost thirty years later).
On the return ride that June day in 1884,
Roosevelt managed to kill his first antelope, too.
Lang said Roosevelt shouted “I got him! I got
him!” He did his Indian war dance around the
carcass, and impulsively offered his shotgun to
Lang as a gift. Lang wrote, “Again and again he
expressed satisfaction due both to my having
been present to witness the occurrence and to my
part in the undertaking. Nor was it mere empty
talk. Before we left the scene he made that perfectly
clear, handing me the surprise of my life in
presenting me with a valuable shotgun which he
had brought out from the east and which I knew
was the only one he had.”
Lang declined to accept the extravagant gift.
Roosevelt and Lang made the complete round
trip of fifty miles on their horses in a single day,
probably June 15, 1884, stopping frequently,
Lang reported, to enable Roosevelt to study the
flora and fauna, ask scores of questions, and
exclaim about the beauties of the Dakota plains.
One was 26, the other 17 years old.
Decades later Roosevelt remembered Mrs.
Maddox and the shirt. Lincoln Lang remembered
the young man who became the 26th
President of the United States.
Did Edith Roosevelt Ever Visit the Badlands?
Yes. Roosevelt brought his second wife Edith, his
sisters Bamie (Anna) and Corinne and her husband
Douglas Robinson, a friend named Bob
Ferguson, and his best friend Henry Cabot
Lodge’s sixteen-year-old son George (Bay)
Lodge to the Elkhorn Ranch in 1890, not quite
one year into North Dakota’s statehood.
The group arrived on the train well before dawn
on September 2, 1890. Met by Roosevelt’s ranch
supervisors Sylvane Ferris and Bill Merrifield, the
party repaired to Joe Ferris’ store to rest before
making the long journey to the ranch, 35 miles
north of Medora.
Edith’s first impressions of North Dakota were
not favorable. A rainstorm that Corinne called
“one of the most frightful storms” she ever witnessed,
soaked the traveling party as they exited
the train and Edith’s dress was covered with a
“glutinous slime” before she set foot in the
depot. At first the stark badlands country struck
her as godforsaken.
The men rode horses to the Elkhorn Ranch and
the ladies sat in a horse-drawn wagon. The party
crossed the Little Missouri 23 times before they
reached the ranch. According to Corinne, the
wagon had to hurtle down one steep bank of the
river in order to gain enough momentum to climb
the bank on the other side. Corinne said nobody
dared complain lest they disappoint Theodore.
The Roosevelts reached the eight-room, 30 by
60 foot cabin at noon on September 2, 1890.
Edith cheered up, climbed a butte, chased
prairie dogs, and rode a horse called Wire Fence.
She laughed as Corinne attempted to “wrastle” a
calf.
Later, Roosevelt wrote gleefully to Edith’s
mother: “I have rarely seen Edith enjoy anything
more than she did the six days at my ranch... and
she looks just as well and pretty and happy as she
did four years ago when I married her—indeed I
sometimes almost think she looks if possible
even sweeter and prettier, and she is as healthy as
possible, and so young looking and slender.”
The Roosevelt party was not in North Dakota
long. On September 9, 1890, they boarded the
train again and ventured on to Yellowstone Park.
At Yellowstone Edith was thrown from her horse
and badly bruised. Roosevelt briefly worried that
she might have broken her back. But Edith was
made of some of the same stuff as her hyperactive
husband.
The party returned to Medora briefly on
September 23, 1890, on its return trip to
Washington, D.C.
This was Edith’s only trip to the North Dakota
badlands. It came at the end of Roosevelt’s main
years of badlands experiences, and in a sense,
served to close the curtain on that episode of his
life.
Why Did Roosevelt Get Out of
the Cattle Business?
Roosevelt left Dakota Territory for several reasons.
He had considered making his living from ranching
and writing in the wake of a series of setbacks
in 1884. First, his wife Alice and mother Mittie
died within hours of each other on February 14,
1884, in Roosevelt’s New York City brownstone.
In the depths of his grief, Roosevelt wrote, “For
joy or for sorrow my life has now been lived out.”
Roosevelt had also suffered a severe political
setback in 1884. The reform wing of the
Republic Party had tried desperately to prevent
the nomination of James Blaine of Maine as the
party’s Presidential candidate. Roosevelt and his
friend (soon to be his closest friend) Henry Cabot
Lodge worked hard to promote the candidacy of
George F. Edmunds of Vermont. When Blaine
was nominated, many of the Republican Party’s
severest reformists (called Mugwumps) bolted
and determined to support the Democrat Grover
Cleveland in the November election. Roosevelt
and Lodge decided to hold their noses and support
the Republican ticket. This brought denunciations
from the progressive wing of the party
and from many newspaper editorialists.
In June 1884, Roosevelt had good reason to
think his political career might be over.
As time began to heal these wounds between
June 1884 and the fall of 1886, Roosevelt’s motive
for burying himself in the badlands receded. It
was clear by the end of 1885 that he would be welcomed
back into New York politics, and in 1886
he was recruited to represent the Republican
Party in the mayoral election in New York City.
Perhaps more to the point, Roosevelt fell in
love in 1885 with an easterner, his childhood
sweetheart Edith Carow. He had not expected to
remarry at all, certainly not so soon. Victorian sensibilities
mandated a prolonged mourning period.
Roosevelt was embarrassed to acknowledge that
he had fallen in love less than two years after the
death of Alice. Marriage to Edith essentially ruled
out a prolonged life in the Dakota badlands. The
badlands years were the adventure of a single
man. Marriage and family would draw him back to
New York.
Although he declared in Dickinson on July 4,
1886, that “I am, myself, at heart, as much a
Westerner as an Easterner,” the fact is that
Roosevelt was all of his life an easterner who
spent some of his discretionary time in the West
rather than the other way around.
The disastrous winter of 1886-87 not only shattered
any notion that Roosevelt was going to profit
from the cattle business, but it damaged
Roosevelt’s romance with the Dakota badlands.
He was on his honeymoon in Europe when
he learned of the devastating losses that he and
every other rancher had sustained. As soon as
he returned from his European honeymoon,
Roosevelt made a trip to the badlands to inspect
the damage. To Lodge, he wrote, “The losses are
crippling. For the first time I have been utterly
unable to enjoy a visit to any ranch. I shall be glad
to get home.”
Finally, Roosevelt had, by late 1886, accomplished
what he had really intended. He had
thrown himself unhesitatingly into the frontier
life, overcome fears and inhibitions, bonded with
average Americans and learned to respect them
deeply, transformed both his body and his spirit,
participated in what he took to be the quintessential
American experience, and had a roaring
good time in chaps and sombrero. His soul was
too large to confine itself to just one experience
or one arena, however satisfying. He had taken a
transfusion from the Little Missouri River Valley
that would serve him for the rest of his life.
But he was ready to return to the East.
When Was the Last Time Roosevelt
Visited North Dakota?
October 6, 1918, just three months before his
death. Roosevelt stopped in Bismarck and Fargo
that day on a national speaking tour during the
last days of World War I. His theme was “uncompromising
Americanism” at a time when the
government of North Dakota was controlled by
farmer-socialists of the Nonpartisan League. Two thousand
people gathered to glimpse the former
President that Sunday morning in Bismarck.
Roosevelt had not intended to speak, but NPL
signs among the crowd provoked him to address
them for a short time. He recalled his arrest of the
boat thieves in 1886, said, “I owe more to the
times when I lived out here and worked with the
men who have been my friends than to anything
else,” and urged the mothers of North Dakota to
scorn peace talk until American troops “whip
Germany to her knees.”
His remarks in Fargo were very brief. He called
for the unconditional surrender of Germany, and
warned Dakotans not to be taken in by the current
German peace offensive.
The last time he visited the badlands was in
April, 1911. He was beginning his run for a third
term as President. His brief stop in Medora was
unremarkable, but a previous stop in Beach led to
local disenchantment. After expressing his surprise
that Beach existed at all, Roosevelt warned
the local ranchers that they should attempt to put
no more than one cow on every twelve acres of
such marginal grassland. For these words of caution,
the once-revered Roosevelt was taunted by
local citizens. One declared that Roosevelt was an
anachronism, preferring nostalgia for a distant
past to the grazing potential of the new century.
Roosevelt’s last sustained visit to the Little
Missouri River Valley came in 1896. He hunted at
the Elkhorn Ranch. It turned out to be his last
visit to the ranch.
When a badlands visit was proposed in 1918
Roosevelt said, “It’s a mistake for one to hit the
back trail after many years have passed. One
finds things changed, the old picture destroyed,
the romance gone.... It’s best that it should be so,
but I don’t wish to see the place again. I’d rather
try and remember it as it was.”
The romance was over.
How Did Roosevelt Become a Conservationist?
Roosevelt was an avid naturalist from his childhood
on. From an early age he studied all creatures
great and small, kept specimens in the family’s
ice box, mastered taxidermy, and he opened
the “Roosevelt Museum of Natural History” in
his room at the Roosevelt house on Broadway and
Fourteenth Street. Although he killed more than
his share of big game in the course of his life, he
was at least as interested in the flora and fauna of
America from an amateur scientist’s and nature
lover’s point of view as he was in collecting trophies.
Prodigious as was his kill list, he never
failed to condemn the wanton slaughter of the
wild animals. He had a particular detestation of
what he called “game butchers.”
During his badlands years, Roosevelt learned
three essential conservation lessons. First, he
learned that some animals, once regarded as so
abundant as to be an inexhaustible resource, had
actually declined in numbers to the point that
their very existence was endangered. This was
particularly the case with respect to the buffalo
(bison).
Roosevelt actually predicted that the buffalo
would become extinct. Fortunately, and partly
thanks to his efforts, his prediction proved to be
erroneous. Roosevelt understood that without
concerted efforts to preserve the last herds,
preferably by volunteer organizations, but by government
when deemed necessary, such creatures
were likely to disappear forever. Roosevelt was
not afraid to use government as a conservation
tool. In fact, he became the greatest conservationist
in Presidential history.
Roosevelt saw such animals as the buffalo and
the grizzly bear as not only intrinsically fascinating
and worth saving, but he also realized that
they symbolized both the health of what came to
be called ecosystems and the frontier heritage of
the American West.
After killing one of the last of the great western
buffalo herd in 1883, Roosevelt became a champion
of the buffalo and, as President, helped to create
several national bison preserves, including the
National Bison Range in northwestern Montana
(1909), and what was then Sully’s Hill National
Park in North Dakota.
Second, particularly after the disastrous winter
of 1886-87 on the northern Great Plains,
Roosevelt realized that it was quite possible for
westerners, including well-meaning cattlemen, to
exceed the carrying capacity of the lands on
which they lived. Even before the killing winter
Roosevelt warned that too many cattle had been
crowded onto the Great Plains, that the grasses
had been overgrazed, and that any significant disruption
of typical grazing conditions was likely to
lead to an environmental and economic disaster.
This was a key discovery: Roosevelt realized that
for all of its ruggedness, the West was a fragile
place.
Third, Roosevelt realized that the once-infinite
wilderness had been encroached on from all directions,
and that only a small remnant of Daniel
Boone’s primordial America remained. He came
to believe that some few particularly magnificent,
forbidding, or historically important places should
be set aside forever as sanctuaries of the human
spirit and monuments to the frontier experience.
In other words, his later Presidential achievement
of designating 230,000,000 acres of the public
domain as federally protected National Forests,
National Parks, Federal Bird Sanctuaries
(National Wildlife Refuges), National Game
Preserves and National Monuments, had roots in
his experience in Dakota Territory.
In short, Roosevelt came out of the badlands
well aware that the American West was in danger.
He realized that leaders (writers, politicians, philanthropists,
activists) like himself needed to
raise the consciousness of the American public
about the threat to their national heritage. And he
realized that government must play a role in protecting
the natural environment from those who
would skim it for easy profits. Roosevelt turned
to government regulation not with alacrity, but
out of necessity.
Roosevelt’s first act was to collaborate with like-minded
individuals to form a conservation organization,
the purpose of which was to insure that his
was not the last generation that would experience
the joy, adventure, and spiritual renewal of wilderness
hunting. In December 1887, Roosevelt invited
a dozen influential animal lovers to dine with
him at 689 Madison Avenue in New York. Chief
among them was George Bird Grinnell, the editor
of Forest and Stream, who had written a complimentary
but not altogether uncritical review of Roosevelt’s Hunting Trips of a Ranchman. They
discussed the idea of forming an organization of
“American hunting riflemen” to work in the public
and private sectors to preserve America’s natural
resources, particularly big game.
The Boone and Crockett Club was founded in
January 1888. Its first president was Theodore
Roosevelt. It was named for two of Roosevelt’s
heroes, Daniel Boone (1734-1820) and Davy
Crockett (1786-1836). Among other things, the
Boone and Crockett Club played an important
role in protecting Yellowstone National Park from
adverse economic development in the 1890s.
The club still exists today. It continues to promote
ethical hunting, habitat conservation, and
the legacy of Theodore Roosevelt.
Roosevelt was a conservationist not a preservationist.
Guided by his tutor in resource management
Gifford Pinchot, Roosevelt believed that
the nation’s goal should be to welcome economic
activity, but to insist that it be done in a way that
was sustainable for future generations, not extractive
for short-term profits. Roosevelt agreed that
some few sublime or fragile places should be set
aside as inviolable forever, but most of the public
domain should be open to maximum sustained
yield of its trees, grasses, water, and other
resources. Roosevelt admired the great preservationist
John Muir, celebrated his uncompromising
love of nature, and camped with him as
President in 1903 in Yosemite National Park, but
he did not always agree with Muir’s view that
large portions of the West should be protected
forever from human economic activity.
How Close Did Roosevelt and the
Marquis de Mores Come to Fighting a Duel?
Not very close. Roosevelt and de Mores were
very similar in some ways, and fundamentally different
in others. Both were aristocrats from elsewhere
who came to the badlands in 1883, invested
significant portions of their net wealth, and
left after a few years of adventure and economic
loss. They both took themselves very seriously,
and they both were more likely to gravitate to
trouble than turn away from it.
Roosevelt was much less wealthy than de
Mores, but he lost a greater percentage of his net
worth in Dakota than did the flamboyant
Frenchman. He was also more modest in his idea
of what profits the badlands of Dakota could be
made to yield. Roosevelt was content to be a
rancher. De Mores wanted to be the baron of the
badlands. He built a slaughterhouse, purchased
(or sponsored) most of the businesses in the village,
which he founded and named after his wife
Medora von Hoffman, and he entertained
grandiose schemes to grow cabbages, transport
fresh salmon from the west coast to Chicago and
New York, and create a pottery industry on the
banks of the Little Missouri.
By the time he reached Dakota Territory in
1883, de Mores had already killed two men in
duels. He was a crack shot. He exercised his duel-ing arm by lifting a specially weighted walking
stick until it was parallel with the ground.
Roosevelt was an aggressive man, and he had
knocked men down in the pubs of New York, but
he had never been involved in a duel. His eyesight
was poor. He was a more persistent and
dogged than precise shot with a rifle; with a pistol
he was at a very decided disadvantage.
Roosevelt and de Mores maintained cordial although somewhat formal relations with each
other. Roosevelt occasionally dined at the
“chateau” de Mores, and the Marquis and
Marquise dined with the Roosevelts in New York
City during this period. On at least one occasion
de Mores dined at the Elkhorn Ranch.
Still, they had found themselves in conflict a
couple of times in the course of their badlands
sojourns. De Mores had grazed cattle on
Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross acreage in the autumn
of 1884, and removed them only when TR’s ranch
supervisors threatened to move the cattle themselves.
Roosevelt chose for the location of the
Elkhorn Ranch ground that de Mores claimed for
himself. When de Mores protested, Roosevelt
replied that all he found when he reconnoitered
the site were carcasses of the Marquis’ dead
sheep, and he did not think they could substantiate
the Frenchman’s claim in court. De Mores
bought cattle from Roosevelt at an agreed-upon
price, then unilaterally lowered the price when
Roosevelt drove the cattle in to the slaughterhouse
in Medora. When Roosevelt protested, de
Mores said the price of cattle had dropped in eastern
markets and he could not afford to pay
Roosevelt more than the market value of the
herd. Roosevelt took his cattle home, and determined
to have no further business dealings with
de Mores.
The so-called near-duel occurred in September,
1885. De Mores and his men had killed a man
named Riley Luffsey in the spring of 1883, before
Roosevelt ever set foot in the badlands. Although
murder charges against de Mores had twice been
dismissed for lack of evidence, in the fall of 1885
he was indicted for murder by a Mandan grand
jury.
Roosevelt’s friends and closest allies in the
badlands were men who distrusted de Mores:
especially Joe Ferris, Gregor Lang, and his son
Lincoln. De Mores came to believe that Ferris
had helped to round up witnesses against him at
the time of the 1885 murder trial, and that
Roosevelt was backing Ferris’ activities. De
Mores was misreading Ferris’ actions (though not
his attitude), and erroneously tying the indictment
to what he regarded as increasing tensions
with Roosevelt.
This led to a now-famous exchange of letters.
From his jail cell in Mandan, de Mores wrote
Roosevelt on September 3, 1885:
My principle is to take the bull by the horns.
Joe Ferris is very active against me and has
been instrumental in getting me indicted by
furnishing money to witnesses and hunting
them up. The papers also publish very stupid
accounts of our quarrelling—I sent you the
paper to N.Y. Is this done by your orders? I
thought you my friend. If you are my enemy
I want to know it. I am always on hand as you
know, and between gentlemen it is easy to
settle matters of that sort directly.
Yours very truly
Mores
I hear the people want to organize a county. I
am opposed to it for one year more at least.
When he received this letter, Roosevelt regarded
it as threatening a duel. He asked his friend and
ranch supervisor William Sewall to serve as his
second, and his tentative choice of weapons was
rifles at twelve paces. Roosevelt replied on
September 6, 1885.
Most emphatically I am not your enemy; if I
were you would know it, for I would be an
open one, and would not have asked you to
my house nor gone to yours. As your final
words, however, seem to imply a threat it is
due to myself to say that the statement is not
made through any fear of possible consequences
to me; I too, as you know, am always
on hand, and ever ready to hold myself
accountable in any way for anything I have
said or done.
Yours very truly
THEODORE ROOSEVELT
It seems clear in retrospect that de Mores was not
threatening a duel, though he undoubtedly was
putting Roosevelt on warning that he would not
tolerate the New Yorker’s meddling in the trial.
Roosevelt probably over-reacted to de Mores’ letter,
in part because he was never one to back away
from a fight, and in part because he knew de
Mores’ penchant for settling disputes on the field
of honor. After agonizing over the possibility of
facing off against a man comfortable with violence,
and of course an infinitely better marksman,
Roosevelt decided that if a duel could not be
avoided, he would choose rifles at twelve paces.
Undoubtedly his logic was that rifles at such proximity
would increase the likelihood that both men
would be wounded or killed, and therefore de Mores might think twice before moving forward.
Had he chosen pistols or swords, Roosevelt
would have given de Mores a decided advantage.
At any rate, de Mores immediately sent a conciliatory
letter to Roosevelt, which Roosevelt
chose to interpret as an apology.
These short essays are excerpted from Clay Jenkinson's book, Theodore Roosevelt in the Dakota Badlands: An Historical Guide. The book was Dickinson State University's first publication in its Roosevelt initiative. To obtain a copy of the book, click here to purchase from the DSU Store or, click here to visit The Thomas Jefferson Hour® web site.
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